The Indoor Climbing Manual by John White

Author:John White
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781408186640
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Published: 2014-03-15T00:00:00+00:00

DYNO

Adam Lincoln demonstrates a ‘dyno’ – note his initial low, crouching position

Reaching up for the next handhold can be done in two general styles – ‘static’ and ‘dynamic’.

•A ‘static’ move is a controlled reach. At the point at which you reach the target hold, you can maintain that position regardless of whether you grip the hold.

•A ‘dynamic’ move is one requiring some form of leap or jump. At the point at which you reach the target hold you are unable to maintain that position unless you grip the hold.

‘Dynos’ vary in exact style, but the standard dyno involves a dynamic leap from a set of hand- and footholds to reach a higher hold that could not be reached by a static move. To perform the move, the body is allowed to drop into a low position so that the arms are fully extended. This explosive move is then undertaken by pulling hard with the arms at the same time as you push upwards with your legs. As with all other powerful moves in other sports involving the whole body, timing and coordination are everything. The power output from your arms and legs has to be timed to perfection.

For the longest reaches, the leading exponents of the art continue the leg push right through into their toes, resulting in a jump from the best foothold, and the arm pull can be progressed right through to a dynamic push down with one hand, while the other hand reaches for the target hold. Top ‘dynoists’ will also swing their bodies below the start handholds to get a rhythm that they can carry through into the move.

One great leap

Just so that you realise how pathetic your dyno attempts really are, the farthest distance achieved in dyno competitions was 2.85m, set by Denver climber Skyler Weekes (height: 1.95m) on 3 July 2010, at the Cliffhanger Games/World Cup event in Sheffield. That’s a long way!

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